Key performance factors in sport climbing and bouldering a lecture by Carlos Cabrera.

Which are the most important training factors in climbing?

Do we climbers actually train effectively?

How to develop successful training strategies for lead climbing and bouldering?

Is it possible to avoid injury and still become as strong as possible?

How to optimize your training before a comp or a climbing trip?

These are the questions Carlos will try to answer in his lecture about climbing training. The lecture will take place at 18:00 after the qualification for SM and JNM on Saturday and will be held at Kvibergs vandrarhem next doors to Klätterdomen. All competitors, trainers and parents are welcome to participate or anyone else who wants to listen to one of our best climbing trainers in Sweden.

A little about Carlos.

I am a molecular biologist but currently working as project manager for IKSU sport in Umeå. Prior to that i worked as a biomedical analyst at Sahlgrenska University Hospital in Gothenburg. I did research in biocrystallography (atomic-level structural studies of protein, an obscure branch of biophysics), and later on in inborn diseases of the human mitochondrial metabolism. With this background I think I can say I’m kind of an expert in physiology and genetics with an especial interest in training physiology.
Although I did start climbing by my own (mainly soloing) back in 1987 I didn’t properly climb and train until 1999. Before that I had a background in practicing both gymnastics and Karate, a discipline I practiced for 22 years reaching the level of 2nd dan black belt, and competed at national-elite level. As a climbing coach I have been dedicated to training and teaching since about 2003. During this time I have had the invaluable opportunity to coach a lot climbers at both basic, national and international elite levels. It is difficult to name all of them in a simple blog-post, but here are some of the most accomplished climbers I trained in the past or in present time:
Said Belhaj, Several 5.15a redpoint (one of them 2nd go). Multiple 5.14, onsight & V13/14 boulder among other results. Said is a professional climber and a continuous traveler.
Matilda Söderlund, 23 times finalist in IFSC youth European Youth Cup and World Youth Championships. Finalist in senior category in World Games, World Cup and World Championships. On rock she has climbed 5.14a onsight & 5.14c redpoint.
Geir Söderin, is a Swedish national-level top climber having done several 5.13 onsight, 5.14d redpoint, and V13 boulders.
Anja Hodann, Mother of two and former World Cup boulderer, who also is one of the best competition boulderer in Scandinavia. Anja has even made ascents as difficult as V11 and has an extensive record in lower bouldering levels. Anja has been at the very top of the international competition circuit before she trained with me.
Daniel Andersson, has been the most prominent Swedish male competition boulderer in his category. He has also reached IFSC World cup semi-finals a few times and has climbed boulders at about V13.
Daniela Ebler, member of the Swedish national team being close to semi-finals in both a world-cup and Paris World championship 2012. Nowadays Daniela is one of the best, if not the best, coaches in Swedish climbing scene training youth to levels few could imagine.
Robert Rundin, member of the national bouldering team, elite routesetter and having an extensive record of boulders up to V13
Catherine Brunel: Mother of two and member of the Canadian bouldering team 2015 and climbing boulders ad about V10 and sport routes about 5.13c.
Daniel Olausson. Swedish top boulderer and an excellent freelance photographer. Daniel has an extensive record of problems up to V11.
In the past I have also coached a large part of the Swedish national team in both senior (most climbers above-mentioned) and youth categories summing about 30 final-starts in European Youth Cup, Youth/senior World and European Championships. At the Nordic/national level, young climbers I trained together with Harry Denanto (an excellent coach) have obtained 50+ medals. (I never mention youth by name as I do not like putting extra pressure on them)
Along with these prominent names I have had hundreds of collaborations with climbers at all levels ranging from just a few questions to more or less formal programs helping them improving climbing skills and serving as motivational help.
I have also been responsible of the coaching structure of the competition-oriented section of Sweden’s largest climbing club (Solna, Stockholm), designing a structure that up to date has spread among several organizations in Sweden.
I have also attended international courses on climbing medicine and training and I am a frequent lecturer giving courses and clinics in several countries. My areas of expertise are training-theory, physiology, outdoor sport climbing, climbing-career management and elite competition climbing. I like to keep up to date with both general sport science and specific climbing research and I do so by maintaining an ever growing database of approximately 400+ research articles, frequent contact with coaches, researchers, national team officers of several countries, doctors and other professionals.
Kvibergs klätterklubb and Carlos Cabrera welcomes you to this lecture.

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